Along that path is another interesting "innovation" from the brand for 2015 that is worth bringing up as an example of what luxury watch makers are prone to getting excited about. One of the 2015 Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Skeleton Flying Tourbillon watches comes with a "gem-set rubber bezel" (ref. DBEX0480). This 45mm-wide black DLC-coated titanium watch has a rubber coated bezel that is also set with 60 baguette-cut diamonds (about 2.24 carats worth). The large sparkling stones contrast with the matte black surface of the rubber in a way that melds a degree of sportiness with jewelry romance. You either "get it" or you don't, but it is interesting to understand who this product is intended for. Inside the watch is the in-house made and manually-wound Roger Dubuis caliber RD505SQ skeletonized movement with the time and flying tourbillon. It exists as a limited edition of 88 pieces.
Beauty is not just skin deep, so let's get down to business and look at the movement side. One of the reasons why this particular movement is suitable for discussing the merits of independent watchmaking is its lacking of even the simplest complications. Omitting even something as ordinary as a regular date, we really are looking at a very minimalistic approach to what a watch movement has to be and what it has to do. As opposed to complicated chronographs or chiming mechanisms, the movement is extremely simple and straight-forward in its construction – and yet, it provides more than enough eye-candy even for those who have grown used to seeing a city-like arrangement of minuscule wheels and bridges.
Personally, I'd like to think that Apple chose to intentionally release the full Apple Watch details during an event exactly one week from the official start of Baselworld 2015 - the watch industry's major trade show event that occurs each year in Basel, Switzerland. In covering the Apple Watch hands-on here, and in other instances, I've mentioned that unlike many other modern wearable electronic "smartwatch" devices, the Apple Watch was designed by people very much inspired by the traditional watch industry. In touching and feeling the Apple Watch, you certainly get that feeling. Apple did not just decided to produce a wearable computer that fits the Apple brand DNA, Apple wanted to produce something that felt like a modern extension of the traditional watch industry - and for this reason, I believe it is important to Apple that the Apple Watch has an impact on Baselworld, as well as the watch industry overall.
If you decide the De Bethune DBS Tourbillon is for you, you'd better move fast! There are only 10 models available, each bearing their unique serial number along the bottom of the dial. We will update with pricing information as it becomes available. Debethune.ch
Keep up with our pre-, post-, and live Baselworld 2015 coverage here.
Urwerk UR-1001 Titan Is Intense Zeit Device Pocket Watch For The Wrist Hands-On
40 Commentsby Ariel Adams
Urwerk UR-1001 Titan Is Intense Zeit Device Pocket Watch For The Wrist Hands-On
It's always nice to see brands celebrating their heritage appropriately. The new Arnold & Son DTE Double Tourbillon Escapement Dual Time watch does just that. Few brands around these days have the luxury of being able to claim their founder played a role in the creation of a complication, much less one as famous and ubiquitous as the tourbillon. Despite the fact that Arnold & Son have not been in continuous operation since the foundation of the company in 1764, the renaissance of the brand owes much to the longevity of John Arnold's professional legacy, embellished through time by his personal friendship with Abraham Louis-Breguet.
On the wrist, the H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar watch is 40.8mm wide and 11.1mm thick. For me, that is a really nice dress watch size, and I found it to be very comfortable looking even with short sleeves (I very rarely wear long sleeves). I mention this because a lot of the time, smaller watches look extremely petite if you aren't wearing long sleeves. For this reason, in colder cities with a more business environment, people wear smaller watches to go with long sleeves and in warmer places like Los Angeles and Miami where it's more of a "leisure culture," you have mostly short sleeves people wear larger watches.
One of the coolest parts of the Heuer Globetrotter idea is that each exhibition around the world will feature, in addition to TAG Heuer Museum collection watches, pieces loaned by collectors local to the exhibiting city. That really gives each event more character and a personal touch, and something that you could not get simply by, say, visiting the TAG Heuer Museum in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. TAG Heuer is being reinvigorated under Jean-Claude Biver and fighting for hearts and minds on two fronts – one being millennials who apparently want hip DJ watches, and the other being its traditional fan base and Heuer collectors. The Heuer Globetrotter is a fresh and clever concept to appeal to the latter.
The new Airboss Mechanical Black Edition watch collection from Victorinox Swiss Army takes the popular Airboss family of higher-end timepieces from the brand, and gives them an all-black case and red ring applied to the sapphire crystal. This three-hand model is handsome, legible, and, best of all, affordable. One thing we can typically say about Victorinox Swiss Army watches is that they offer a lot of value when measured against competitors. More so, even though the Victorinox Swiss Army Airboss Mechanical Black Edition has a degree of modern looks and a strong masculine feel, this is nevertheless a watch with enough timeless design to keep it relevant on your wrist for years to come. Price for the Victorinox Swiss Army Airboss Mechanical Black Edition is 5.
Louis Vuitton is part of the larger LVMH (Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy) group which also owns major watch makers such as Zenith, Hublot, TAG Heuer, and Bulgari. It isn't as though LVMH really needs more watches, but a brand as powerful as Louis Vuitton doesn't do too poorly with whatever it decides to offer, and its watches are certainly among its more exclusive offerings. So let's take a look at these new DLC-coated black steel Louis Vuitton Tambour éVolution GMT watches for 2015 and who they might be good for.
At 42mm wide, the Frédérique Constant Manufacture Heart Beat FC-945 case is both wearable and comfortable, also being 11.6mm thick. It never feels too large, but it has that substantial feeling many people like from mechanical watches. Because quartz watches have small, rather lightweight movements, you rarely get this sort of feeling from them. Of course, this particular version comes in the solid 18k rose gold case, which is rare for Frédérique Constant given their typically sub ,000 price point. Don't forget, of course, that Frédérique Constant also produces a few Tourbillons in their Manufacture collection that top out the brand at about ,000 in 18k rose gold. Still, a very reasonable price for a Swiss tourbillon.
What wasn't entirely clear at the time of the release but we now know for certain is that the Rolex Day-Date 40 does, in fact, replace the Rolex Day-Date II, tuning the "DD" down ever so slightly from 41 to 40 millimeters wide. Rolex actually refers to the Day-Date as its "most prestigious model," and so it is no wonder the latest and arguably greatest Rolex movement is making its debut in this updated collection as well. First things first, we will discuss the new looks and then go on to discover further details of the new Rolex 3255 caliber.
Here's the deal: if you have an extra 35,000 Swiss Francs (or the currency equivalent thereof) laying around, you are more than likely going to want a MB&F Melchior robot clock if you are even remotely interested in the mechanical horological subject matter of aBlogtoWatch. That's a big "if," though, because about US,000 (at the time of writing) isn't chump change. It is, however, a price that at least 99 people are going to be more than eager to dedicate towards having this "roboclock" in their home or office. So, let's take a closer look at the newest clock creation to come out of the partnership between Swiss MB&F and also Swiss L’Epée.
In terms of visual links to speed and daring, Zenith have decorated the right hand side of the silvered, open-heart dial, with a tricolor racing stripe in blue, white, and red. The stripe is continued onto the strap, where a ribbon of color takes over from the printed lines on the dial. I like racing stripes on cars. They are a simple way to decorate what would otherwise be a large, block-colored space. On a watch face, you don't have so much room to play with. These three stripes, although adding a splash of patriotic color to the display, really clutter what is an already busy dial.
The finished small pieces of tritium gas tubes are then either sold directly to brands who purchase and install them on their dials, hands, and bezels on their own, or are transferred to an assembly department where they are fitted to said components by MB-Microtec. Depending on the size of the order and the complexity of the task, either a machine is capable of picking up the pieces one by one from their container tray and then installing them to the dials, or the installation is performed by a worker at the manufacture. What you see above is how the tubes are fitted onto the hands.
Sure, people who train for and perform in such activities might be a little nuts, or better said, super-passionate. How else can you explain the amount of training I subjected my body to last year, and just to cap it off with a 13+ hours event? Anyhow, whatever your feeling about endurance athletes and events, one thing you can see plenty of there is passionate folks doing something that may not make sense to the rest of the world or might seem downright crazy to others... That passion, the sense of community that comes with being an Ironman triathlete is very much akin to one of my other passions: watch collecting.