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The case design is pretty cool for this watch. Like a curved rectangle, it is in ceramic and titanium being 48.5mm tall by 34.5mm wide. A notable feature is how the straps are attached. There is a sort of retainer tube (that you can see right through), on the side of the case that holds the strap in place. I think it is probably clear that only Rado will be able to change the strap for you. The angular look of the case is still nicely curved where it counts. There is a fine mixtures of angles and organic curves on the case.

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So what do I like? Well first of all legibility is pretty good overall. Though I have to add that universally the hands are too short. Nevertheless, for the price, the dial quality and materials are good. I would put the quality up there with a brand like Skagen, which offers pretty decent stuff for around the same price. I have certainly seen watches that are much more expensive with much crappier looking dials. Sad but true. It just goes to show that a lot of the time in the watch world, what you get isn't just about the price, but about the quality of the suppliers that the brands work with. I have seen watches that have excellent cases and dials, only to be matched with craptastic straps. Why? Simply because the brand (for whatever reason), works with a supplier that isn't doing their best. With the Cross watches, you seem to feel like you are getting the most out of a couple of hundred bucks.

I've written about the Perrelet Turbine watch over the years and did a hands-on review of the Perrelet Turbine XL watch here. The high-end novelty watch continues to hold my attention. If you don't recall how it works, the Turbine is a play on the original Perrelet double rotor concept that has a second rotor on the dial which is connected to the rear rotor in the automatic movement. The turbine on the dial spins with the movement of your wrist. With enough inertia, it will spin pretty fast. Perrelet learned that by using large, bold hands as it does here - a high level of legibility can be maintained.

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In order to promote the 1:Face message, Mirza uses social media as much as his people can. He uses his own advice and goes to what appears to be mostly mommy bloggers. Sound strange? Well it isn't. Apparently some research has found that "mommy bloggers" and other female bloggers who target other women are highly influential for those demographics. Mirza offers free watches in exchange for reviews and media, which is usually mentioned at the bottom of those reviews:

When it comes to functionality, the watch does tell the time of course. The lights come up to display the time using two “painted” analog hands. Given the nature of the creation, the Eco-Drive Nova watch doesn’t even center them in the middle of the dial. The playful concept creation is a fun toy first, and a watch second. Citizen likely uses a special display combined with a type of fiber optic light source to create the impressive effect.

Featuring the same pusher locking system seen in the original RM032 Dive Chronograph we showed you here, turning the inner ring around the crown locks both the crown and pushers from use and secures the watch for dives of up to 300m. Similar to the locking system seen in much of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor range, the Richard Mille system offers an easy and visually verifiable way of locking its controls, not only for water resistance but also to ensure that the measure taken by the watch cannot be interrupted while diving. As cool as this system, and indeed the entire RM032 Dark Diver is, I doubt that many buyers will take such a watch diving, let alone to great depths.

Number of components: 3

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Dial and hands:

  • Black dial with 3 black snailed hollowed counters at 12, 6 and 9 o’clock
  • Hour and minute hands and hour-markers rhodium-plated for the steel version or gold-plated for the 18ct rose gold version, enhanced with Superluminova
  • Central sweep seconds hand rhodium-plated for the steel version or gold-plated for the 18ct rose gold version, tipped with a red arrow
  • Hour and minute counter hands rhodium-plated for the steel version or gold-plated for the 18ct rose gold version
  • Red seconds counter hand

The Roller Guardian Time is a very unique timepiece in the world of high-end watch making. You really need to get to know Mr. Ladoire to appreciate it and understand the lifestyle around it. With a unique shape and design, it is a special member of the world of independent horology. I first wrote about the Ladoire RGT watch here a few years ago.

 

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For the Tank Anglaise, Cartier built a sort of hybrid between the Tank Francaise and the Ballon Bleu. See what I mean? The sides of the case are richly rounded making it feel thicker, and the crown is placed in the middle of a very thick bezel. This offers a flush look on the sides of the watch. The complex crown is cool looking and contains a large sapphire crystal cabochon. I like how the crown is not too small and combines both angular and organic design elements.

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Movement dimensions: 41.35mm long x 32.65mm wide x 11.55 mm high

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The steel case is water resistant to 200 meters and uses an AR coated mineral crystal. Mineral crystal is actually the officially mandated "military watch" crystal material because it chips versus shatters when damaged. Around the dial is a diver-style rotating timing bezel. The case is available in brushed or PVD black coated steel. This specific ref # 59824 model is newer with a "digicam" pixelated camouflage dial in the style of modern military fatigues. For me "digicam" actually means digital camera, not "digital camouflage" (which doesn't even make sense). While the hour indicators are a bit tougher to see on this dial versus the black dialed version (for example), legibility is still there in a big way.

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To that end, It's easy to see why Linde Werdelin decided to occupy an office in London's trendy Notting Hill. For me personally it's perfect, as 20 minutes after leaving my house I find myself sharing coffee and chit chat with Jorn Werdelin.

Listen to the HourTime show watch podcast episode 112 here.

Movement manufactured by Ladoire : Calvet/o1

If you are a fan of Navitimer watches then the newer ones with the in-house made movements and 43mm size are probably the perfect choice. They also come in 12 hour dial formats too! Did you know that the dial base plate was solid sterling silver? I didn't know that. Attached to the watch is typical assortment of strap/bracelet options from Breitling. Leather, crocodile, and a few others no doubt.

Case: Stainless steel and DLC-coated case with sapphire uni-directional rotating bezel. Case diameter 45mm, lug width 22mm. Inner soft iron, anti-magnetic Faraday cage to protect movement. Protective patented anti-shock movement mount. Automatic Helium escape valve and crown protector.

For once, I see very well done propeller style hands. The large hands are used for the hour and minute hands, while more traditional aviator-style hands are used for the chronograph subdials. Legibility is very high here - which I very much appreciate. According to BRM, the style of the watch case and dial are heavily taken from aircraft such as the Spitfire, P-51 Mustang, and the Mitsubishi Zero. Come to think of it, are any of those bomber planes versus fighters? It doesn't really matter in the end - you get the idea.

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