Two‐position winding crown
On the back: winding efficiency selector
Sarpaneva revised the date wheel mechanism on the HM3 to insert the moon phase. I believe it required the formation of a new disc which rather than having a 31 day cycle, would have an approximately 29.5 day cycle (the lunar cycle). It is a clever way of integrating a moon phase indicator into a watch without modifying the movement too much. Sarpaneva actually does this with the Soprod movements he uses in his own watches.
Harry Winston will offer the Opus 12 in 18k white gold. The middle section of the case is said to be made from Harry Winston's proprietary Zalium metal - a zirconium alloy. Some other versions of the Opus 12 will have diamonds. What? It is Harry Winston we are talking about here... With 27 hands on the dial and a lot going on, this watch is sure to be someone's prized possession. I have to admit that it is very cool to use and I like that each new Opus watch from Harry Winston is not only interesting, but also unpredictable.
A little while back I discussed the full Bovet Recital collection going from the Recital 1 through the 0. The curious collection started out simply, but quickly grew more and more complex. For a while, each new model seemed to just build on the last and add complications. This Recital 0 goes back to the Recital 1 and 2 in terms of having the time, tourbillon, and power reserve indicator only. As far as the "simple" Recitals go, the 0 is my favorite.
The movement is a great looking thing. For one, I love that it is not round but square in design. The caliber DR 19-89 is manually wound with a standard power reserve of 42 hours. I love the various finishes de Grisogono used for the movement parts and surfaces. It looks very nice, but in a modern and unique way. Aside from the time, the movement features a subsidiary seconds dial, power reserve indicator, moon phase indicator, day/night indicator, and date. A central plate in the dial can be spun around to view an additional function with the time.
Between when this watch was debuted and now, Bell & Ross changed the name of this piece. The official name (now) is the Bell & Ross Vintage BR126 (BR 126) Sport. That little Sport part of the name was likely added because of the bezel - which currently isn't shared on other pieces in the Vintage BR collection. For instance, in this article you'll see images of the Bell & Ross Vintage BR123 (BR 123), which has the same case, but with a different bezel and three-hand, versus chronograph movement. Plus, there is a version of this watch with a polished bezel versus one with a black bezel insert.
This Citizen Perpetual Chrono AT watch for instance is light powered (using Citizen's famous Eco-Drive movement), atomic clock controlled, has a perpetual calendar, chronograph, and second time zone indicator... among other functions. This basically means that once you set it up you could go without ever adjusting it again for the rest of your life. The downside, especially as applied to analog watches that do all this is that the system is inherently complicated to learn and set up. Citizen offers a sizable instruction manual along with tutorial videos on their website, and you will need to reference them to figure out how to use a watch like this. Not that this is an issue, but people like me tend to be used to getting watches and figuring them out in a few seconds right out of the box.
Small seconds hand at 9 o’clock
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10. Seiko Astron Watch
The case itself has some very elegant finishing and details. One item to note is the gold coin replica on the back of the watch. Cyrus owns the original, and made miniature perfect copies of it that go into each watch. The original coin is an artifact that is over 2,500 years old. As I mentioned, the case is cushion shaped with wonderful effects on the side. The cases employs polished, brushed, and satin finishes on its various parts. The bezels are DLC coated black. Size is admirable at 48mm wide, but it wears very comfortably due to the short lugs. I love the abundance of textures and polishes all over the case and dial of the Klepcys.
Crystal: Sapphire with interior/exterior anti-reflective coating
The bezel is designed after diving watch bezels from the 1950s. Usually a watch like this would have a tachymeter style bezel, and I am glad that it does not. Unfortunately, the dive-style bezel is only for looks and to give another hour/minute scale. It does not rotate. That isn't a really big deal, but having a moving bezel would have been amazing in my opinion. Dial legibility is really good and hands are all the right length. Inside of the watch is a Swiss ETA 2894 automatic chronograph movement. Bell & Ross retains the date, but removes the 12 hour counter to make it a bi-compax chronograph measuring up to 30 minutes. It is a very clean and attractive dial that for me looks perfect in black (other non "Sport" versions of similar watches have the dial in silver as well). On the rear of the watch is an exhibition caseback window.
Once again it is the little details which make this Bell & Ross watch as nice as it is. The finishing on the case, the cool look of the dial colors and textures, and the use of different hand designs for each dial are all things which Bell & Ross does well. Inside the WWII Bomber Regulator is a modified Swiss ETA automatic movement. You'll notice that the back of the watch also has the feel of an instrument versus a 'mere' high-end wrist watch. That caseback is a style that I think debuted on the Bell & Ross WWI collection. The Bell & Ross WWII Bomber Regulator (WW2 Regulateur Heritage) is not a limited edition watch and will be part of the regular collection for the time being starting a bit later this year in 2012.