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In addition to cocks, I mean roosters, Zegg & Cerlati jewelry features a lot of animals... on rings. Rather interesting stuff if you like bedazzled gorillas on your index finger. Hublot produced two limited edition lady versions of the 41mm wide Big Bang for Zegg & Cerlati with Tina Zegg. She liked the mirror dial look of some other Hublot models and wanted to go with these two. One in steel and one in 18k rose gold. Interestingly enough, the rose gold version does not have a rose gold dial. The dial is rather made from mirror polished brass. You can see the color tone differences in the image. Hublot chose a strap to match the brass dial on the gold version.
When I started my timepiece collection, I consider myself fortunate to have bought a Rolex GMT-Master II (ref. 116713 LN) as my first timepiece. It is one of Rolex's many iconic designs, and to be frank, it still remains one of my favorite watches to this day.
The ID Two concept watch isn't about telling the time or even precision as far as I can tell. It is about Cartier showing the world that it is focused on developing unique and innovative technology that places a halo on the rest of their products. The ID Two watch technology will hopefully make it to upcoming watches. A bit of it already has actually. Cartier has produced a limited edition version of the Astrotourbillon with carbon crystal parts. More on that another time. As far as metal goes, it has been fun, but in a perfect world you will be replaced by unnatural machine grown parts with hard to remember names and clear personalities. The repercussions are a world that removed the more human side of high-end watch making and the traditions the industry is so steeped in. So give it ten years and let's see where things are.
Diego's signature and number 10 are on the dial, while an image of his famous victory pose is placed on the rear of the watch. While the branding might be excessive by some standards, it really helps the watch have a specific theme. Hublot is able to make it fun and interesting rather than cheesy - and that is a fine line to draw when designing watches like this.
The calling card for the entire SpidoSpeed series is the dramatic case design which I think is both radical and beautiful. I think case design is a bold pantomime which changes its tone depending on the type of finish. While the DLC version of the SpidoSpeed is rather stealthy, this new gold version exhibits a very muted luxuriousness. The matte satin finish does not hide the gold's color but rather reins in its overall bling factor, making it an excellent choice for those who could never understand the appeal of a gold Rolex Datejust. More to the point, Linde Werdelin has managed to make gold cool. In almost any instance, I won't give a gold watch a second look, as my taste lies in stainless steel or titanium. There is something about gold watches that always seems to be too flashy or too cruise-boat-chic for my tastes, but the SpidoSpeed Gold looks youthful, aggressive and the satin finish is an excellent match for its complex case and detailed dial design.
Looking at the Oktopus II you see the first use of ceramic for the brand. Here the bezel is ceramic, as well as the case side on some models. This version of the Oktopus II is equipped with a specially produced movement module from Dubois-Depraz. On top of the base ETA is a really cool big-date indicator. This watch also represents the first time Linde Werdelin has worked with the well-known module maker Dubios-Depraz. If you have been following LW, you know that over the years they have offered watches with movements sourced or specially made from all sorts of suppliers. I understand that they will likely work more with DD in the future.
The price is high but not surprisingly so and the GAF will need to wage war against incumbents like Seiko, Citizen, mid-range G-Shocks and even entry level Swiss options from Tissot and Hamilton. I like the size and weight of the GAF as well as its eccentric lime green second hand, but I find the dial design to be a bit too complicated for the watch to have a traditional military appeal. Even with that in mind, the GAF is limited to just 100 units and I don't think they will have much difficulty finding a Georgian wrist for each one.
While the case is just 40mm wide, the piece does sit a bit larger on the wrist due to the larger lugs and the prominent crown and pushers. The split second pusher is located in the crown itself for a cleaner look. As I state in the video, what I love about this watch are the retro looks and use of dauphine hands on a sports watch. You rarely see that and I think the dial is able to pull it off rather well. You also have applied hour markers and a very legible face. All it is missing is lume.
The second watch in the High Performance collection is the High Performance Chronograph. Neither the name nor design are particularly original, but again it does look nice. I suspect that the case size is the same as the diver, but in this instance the material for the case is ceramic. That is nice enough, and if the cases are anything like those on the ceramic Girard-Perregaux ww.tc models then they will be lovely.
Inside the watch looks to be a base Swiss ETA Valjoux 7750 movement. Bremont seems to use a special module that turns the subsidiary seconds and date indicators into retrograde hands. The result is a wonderfully symmetrical and balanced dial that feels fresh and new despite the intentionally "old" looking dial design. The retrograde seconds dial jumps back to its original position after each 30 seconds (as opposed to after each 60 seconds). I really like the decorative effects in the retrograde dials.
Sitting with Max Busser of MB&F a few weeks ago here in Los Angeles, he shared with me a few scant details about a new experimental project he (and the technical mind behind MB&F Serge Kirknoff) was working on with Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei of Urwerk. Almost as a dare, the two boutique brands would collaborate on yet a third brand. I needed to consider this for a moment. I've always known Max to be a very busy man, and I imagine the other parties to this experiment aren't exactly overwhelmed with free time. Plus, starting a new brand isn't exactly a simple endeavor. There would need to be new logos, branding, marketing implications, and of course business realities. So why do it?
The dial itself is pretty handsome with Louis Moinet's special wiggly machine engraving. They have a name for it that I forgot. So I will stick with "wiggly sunburst." A nice and elegant name, just like the Swiss want it, right? The hands on the dial could be a bit longer, and personally I would have ditched the skeletonization in favor of more lume.
Internet sales for the Swiss watch brand Chopard will currently only be available in the United States. In reference to my above statement (ironically), Chopard USA President Mr. Marc Hruschka stated that, "the watch and jewelry market has changed dramatically in the past four or five years thanks in great part to the rise of social media, and we aim to be on the forefront in all realms, including luxury e-commerce." Chopard continued to point out that the e-commerce site is intended to service people outside of metropolitan areas who cannot visit a Chopard retailer. In defense of their retailer network, Chopard does state that the experience of going to a store and touching and feeling a product cannot be reproduced online.
The Zenith Academy Minute Repeater Chronograph is actually a rather large timepiece. The case is 45mm wide in 18k rose gold and it is almost 17mm thick. That should however lead to a lot of space in the case for the gongs as well as air space for sound to reverberate. I have a feeling the minute repeater sounds lovely in this watch. Hopefully I will find out some day soon. Zenith will produce just a few of these as a limited edition set of 25 pieces. Price is 2,000.
The new Octopus II has really upped their benchmark in terms of case finishing. Alternate brushed surfaces on a case with such sharp angles is quite impressive!
You made it this far so I might as well talk about what the watch does. I am sure there are other Patek Philippe regulator style watches, but this is the first one that I have personally come across. Regulator style watches are thematically based on old reference clocks used by watch makers and other people who needed an accurate clock to use when setting other clocks and watches. These have separate dials for the hours, minutes, and seconds. The main dial is usually reserved for the seconds while the hour and minutes get subsidiary dials. Thin blued hands do a nice job against the metallic surfaces and railroad track style markers. I will mention it now because they did such a good job, but I love how Patek Philippe matched the color of the hands with a blue alligator strap on the case. Don't you love the design of the strap buckle? Totally retro-cool.
The dials themselves are very well-done for what RJ is going for. Romain Jerome was able to create a three-dimensional display that looks as though it was built out of pixel layers. The characters/sprites on the dial are colored with a special lacquer. Nothing feels flat, and given what Romain Jerome wanted to do with the dial and the Space Invaders' theme, I think they did a good job. Reading the time via the hands is fine, but there are no discernible hour markers to help out.
Omega will offer the Speedmaster Racing watches on both metal bracelets and rubber straps. The cases look great on each to be honest. This is one of those instances where I would recommend having both the strap and the bracelet. Inside the watch is a really exciting movement called the Omega caliber 3330. Based on the previous generation of Speedmaster column-wheel chronograph movements, the caliber 3330 adds two important features. First is a Co-Axial escapement. Omega is trying to have as many of their watches with Co-Axial escapement movements as possible. They were finally able to include that technology here. Also in the movements are silicon hair springs. Taken together, these new movement elements increase the accuracy and longevity of the chronograph movement in an appreciable way. The movements are also COSC Chronometer certified. Price for these beauties is reported to be about ,000. Not bad.